The Sesto Canto, pleasure and alchemy
The Dantesque connotation is only a trick as this most tasteful restaurant in the industrial zone north of Città di Castello holds the promise of elegant evenings rife with charm.
To eat at the Sesto Canto is to eat well and of a wide selection, thanks to the Boriosi family whose experience in the business spans over forty years and the young, enthusiastic
staff who take proper care of their guests.
The Sesto Canto is a truly urban spot with a downtown flavour. The latest Boriosi venture, this restaurant is a captivating one that will seduce a knowledgeable circle of gourmands.
Federico and Beatrice, along with their cousins Donatella and Francesco, have arranged the restaurant around the three main branches of gastronomy: seafood, traditional cooking and pizzas.
The aspiring sinners, i.e. the enthusiastic clients, linger outside on an attractively designed open air veranda. The cooking is light and refined. Despite the abundance from the kitchen,
the dishes of the Sesto Canto will protect you from a difficult digestion, a fine alchemy. A way to separate pleasure from pain … Indeed, the early medieval days of ascetic privation are
long gone. It is time to follow a new philosophy embraced by our leader, chef Massimo Valenti who, having worked throughout Europe, knows a bit more about cooking than does the devil.
“Our cuisine is in line with the simplicity of rural tradition, but does not preclude interesting gastronomic excursions. Reinterpretation is part of my creative process. I do not wish to
merely execute, or be a technical custodian of orthodoxy. I adore light cuisine, using the freshest of foods and seasonal offerings and working with relatively brief cooking times. All the
dishes follow the dictates of espresso cuisine, where everything is done live, of the moment. All this comes of my classes at the Scuola Professionale. Then at night I come here and feel really inspired.
I have fun, the atmosphere is perfect,” says Valenti.
Our evening at the Sesto Canto is already under way. A good prosecco, the usual ever-present aperitif, tickles the palates and heightens our interest in choosing. Oh, I forgot, there are
two of us and my companion is already planning a fail-safe and fairly representative double order.
Thus we begin with two somewhat original seafood dishes, almost to test the chef’s mettle. The “Polipo croccante su pomodoro crudo e citronette al frutto della passione” (9,oo €), or
Crispy Octopus on a Bed of Fresh Tomato with Passionfruit Citronette, and the “Calamaro ripieno di ricotta e verdurine con dressing al basilico” (9,oo €), or Squid Stuffed with Ricotta
and Baby Vegetables with Basil Dressing, arrived one after another. To create a domino effect started by the prosecco, a white 2006 Ribolla Gialla from the Collio cellars, “Colmello di
Grotta,” was served promptly and then placed in the ice bucket to keep up its brio.
So much can be said. First of all, kudos for composition. The first impression is the right one, of a strong balance of two well-proportioned dishes. There was a fullness in the flavours,
and yet harmony and delicacy. Both shellfish dissolve on the tongue, melting into the dressing and reduction. There are exotic notes present in both, much desired and pleasing to the
olfactory, including a salty undertone, but just right, to keep the flavours from becoming too heavy.
We continue our sumptuous dinner with a nod to the union between land and sea. Again we order a challenging dish. The “Tagliatelle nere con capesante e zucchine” (9,oo €), or Black
Tagliatelle with Scallops and Zucchini, arrives at our table to be shared, given the abundance of the appetizers, especially the octopus. At the first twist of the fork, we immediately
note the coarse porosity of the homemade tagliatelle, another strength of the Boriosi dynasty. The density of the pasta allows for a perfect absorption of the ink. The scallops’ sweetness
comes out in a rich bouquet of vegetables, bringing the youth of the sea to the solidity of the land. From this comes a complex dish of composite colours and aromas. The flavour is
prismatic, adventurous and in some way complete. For a moment I picture myself on the shores of Madagascar.
At this point a journalistic choice must be made, even if I do want to proceed with more fish. If my table companion opts for a “Filetto di branzino agli agrumi” (13,oo €), or Bass Filet
with Citrus, it is only right that I choose a meat dish. I want to be daring, so I order the “Petto d’anatra al miele d’acacia con mele” (13,5o €), or Breast of Duck with Acacia Honey and Apple.
The bass arrives with the scent of the kitchen trailing behind. Its presentation is extremely elegant. The delicate taste of the fish springs forth and carries on, meeting the pungent persistence of
orange peel and onion. The dish cries out for a versatile palate that can grasp the great complexity, despite the simple preparation of the espresso cuisine. It must be tried, to test your
At first, the duck breast brought to mind a village feast. Then the chef’s hand became evident and interrupted the memory when the notes of the acacia honey and apple slowly captured the
attention. It was almost a unique sweet and sour taste where the flavour of the duck melded with the delicacy of the apple, another fruit bound to the rural tradition. The reduction was
truly heavenly – Sorry! Some things simply should not be uttered in hell – while the final dessert cleansed the palate.
We ended the meal with a “Tortino di ricotta agli agrumi” (4,oo €), or Citrus Ricotta Cake. A quick dessert wine, or passito, would have been nice, but with the return journey in mind we
chose to abstain. Once again, we must remark upon the lightness of the dish that combines the softness of the ricotta with the tangy bouquet of the citrus fruit. And as if the presence
of an angelic face wasn’t enough (all the servers are lovely), we were presented with a parting gift, a “Tortino al cioccolato con composta di crema e decorazione di menta or Chocolate
Cake with Cream Custard and a Mint Garnish. Exciting!
The meal comes to an end, but before taking our leave we want to remind you that excellent pizzas and risottos are also available at the Sesto Canto. Another signature dish that seems to
stand out is the “Passatelli con gamberi, pachino e basilico”, or Passatelli with Shrimp, Pachino Tomatoes and Basil.
But one cannot have everything, as Dante said. We will have to return to this place of perdition.
The Sesto Canto Restaurant and Pizzeria is open evenings from Thursday through Sunday in the summertime and from Friday through Sunday in the winter months. It is located at the city
limits in the industrial zone in Via A. Grandi. Business lunches or private lunchtime events can also be arranged.
To reserve a fine summertime table on the veranda, please call 075 8553251.
From megazine "Valley Life"